Even the most casual observer of Bavaria must by now have realised that traditional Bavarian dress is more than just a costume for the summer and autumn beer festivals, but a real part of the culture of this area of Germany. That’s why you’ll also see lederhosen and dirndl being worn outside of the Oktoberfest weeks in Munich, or to events of personal importance such as weddings. In fact, some people have taken to wearing traditional Bavarian clothing in everyday life: one member of the national parliament from Bavaria even regularly turns up to debates in a dirndl!
This development means that dirndls and lederhosen are fast returning to what they always were: not just party-wear for warm beer-garden days, but versatile day-to-day workhorses. Which in turn means that, in winter, Bavarian fashion goes back to the roots to redevelop the pieces that kept today’s wearers’ grandparents warm. After all, with its Alpine regions, southern Germany is a part of the world that is used to dealing with harsh winter conditions, and they’ve developed the kind of comfortable and robust clothing that is just the ticket when the cold days come and the long nights draw in. Today, we’re looking at a classic of the genre, Bavarian knitwear, because not only is it perfect for rainy, wet, cold weather everywhere, but – in contrast to a pair of lederhosen or a dirndl – a good Bavarian knitted cardigan or body-warmer won’t look out of place as part of a standard winter outfit in London or New York.
What is "Bavarian" about Bavarian knitwear?
What sets Bavarian knitted pieces apart from your average sweater or jumper is its combination of chunky purled knitting patterns with quiet, reserved, but noticeable elements from the repertoire of Tracht – the typical Bavarian costume. So you’ll find plenty of hunting motifs stitched into the work, as well as buttons made of buckhorn. This kind of flourish doesn’t jump out, but marks out what you are wearing as more than just an average cardigan. What is more, Bavarian knitwear – especially for men – is often heavier and more structured than standard knits, with clearer lines at the shoulders and about the midriff. Combined with the stylish details, this turns the pieces from simple cardigans into dressy top layers that you can be proud to show off.
In women’s knits, there is an ever-increasing range of Trachten cardigans, offering everything from simple purls in unassuming everyday colours such as beige and grey through to more conspicuous pieces with volant hems and bright tones such as red and pink. For the winter 2015/16 season, there are even Bavarian-look knitted hoodies with zip-up fronts, offering the missing link between Bavarian and street styles.
This means that the girls have now finally overtaken the boys. Overtaken? Yes, because until recently, men had far more choice in Bavarian knitwear (and, as an aside, how many other areas of fashion have ever offered men a larger range than women?)!
The boys are losing the race
There have always been chunky, sleeveless bodywarmers for men, for example, with a range of attractive patterns as well as simpler cardigans with sleeves: women have, until recently, had more or less one cut to choose from. Where the men are falling behind, however, is in terms of colour: natural wool-tone, brown, or dark grey are about the only shades available, and now that women have surged ahead with creative new designs, men’s knitwear looks less diverse than it used to.
We wonder if the gents will make an attempt to regain the initiative in knitwear: knitting is, after all, despite what many might think, a very masculine activity. North Sea fisherman have long knitted their own jumpers, while in Bavaria, farmers used to make their own socks and bodywarmers. The men will have to start experimenting with colours if they want to match the girls: and perhaps they might… We’re excited about what will happen in Bavarian knitwear in the coming seasons.