Winter warmers that look sharp: Bavarian men’s jackets

There are very few pieces of clothing that say “I’m from Munich” as clearly as a traditional jacket. If lederhosen are typical of Bavaria and checked shirts the uniform of its farmers, then the classic blazer-style jackets made of loden (pressed and rolled wool, or “broadcloth” as it was once called in English) are what makes the Munich man look the part. They’re at once down-to-earth and classy, both traditional and cosmopolitan. Ever since they become fashionable, these jackets have had a twin role: both to use natural materials to protect the wearer from the elements and yet, in so doing, make him look smart.

Trachtenjanker-Stachus-anthra-NEU-A_785x7858Macgqh3mkMgcTrachtenjacke-Stockerpoint-Stachus-braun-AThat’s why the Janker, as German calls this form of Bavarian jacket, looks sharp: it was cut so that Bavarian men could look presentable in town and show their wealth in the countryside. These demands explain the blazer-style structured cut and the fact that well-off Munich residents will often trade in the buckhorn buttons for gold ones; it also explains why you’ll even see politicians and businessmen combining them with silk ties and tailored-made shirts.

It’s probably this role in bridging the gap between traditional Bavaria and the modern world that this form of jacket has grown even more in popularity in recent years. The current trend away from set Tracht outfits towards mixing and matching traditional pieces with other parts of the wardrobe has definitely played to the jackets’ strengths as acceptable counterparts to jeans, corduroys, and suit trousers, to tops, pullovers, and shirts.

That is most likely what is behind the explosion we’re now seeing in the way the traditional Bavarian jacket is interpreted. Besides the classic loden models in grey or brown with their green piping and collars, there are now new ideas hitting the market almost weekly.

Trachten-Lederjacke-Nappa-Spieth-Wensky-TORGAU-bra56bdffc9a6d945835a8c012030Trachtenjanker-Trachtenjacke-Leder-Almsach-ROY-bra56bdff98334abzTAxC1gd9ZLRsThere are the jackets which are almost overcoats: while the outline and cut are as usual (short at the hips, broad at the shoulder) the materials are new: genuine leather or even artificial vintage-look leather are helping the Janker to transition into everyday wear without cheapening it. Other models are combining loden and leather – and mixing in looks from recent fashion trends such as arms in different fabrics to the body and (which new-season bomber would be complete without them?) patches.

Trachtenjacke-Trachtenjanker-Almsach-ALEX-hellgrau56bdffa073adeWalkjacke-Trachtenjacke-Spieth-Wensky-BIRGEL-grau57b77ec962a448HyVAO7FGW2rFOthers are sticking to woollen fabrics, but rounding off the sharp edges and going for a loose structure and younger-looking style. Here, too, you’ll find patches as new colours make their way into traditional jackets, especially blue. The same is happening in this summer’s trend segment, linen jackets, which introduced grey and, above all, blue – along with a more informal, but nevertheless decidedly grown-up, look.

Trachtenjacke-Janker-Feincord-Orbis-JANNIK-blau-A57abc517d4545QJuQ40Uwhs9CaTrachtenjacke-Janker-Lederoptik-Orbis-LARS-hellbra56bdff6eabe277VAdviGDsZTkeMore formal jackets, too, are incorporating blues and other colours such as taupe or lighter browns. Yes: there are now Bavarian jackets which look even more formal than traditional Janker, a feat achieved by brands such Orbis thanks to shimmering velvet-look polyester-polyamide-elasthene blends which make any and every jacket suitable for business and evening wear.

So the message this winter is a clear one: why go out and get another leather coat or a new bomber jacket when a smart Bavarian jacket is available in every segment? Not to mention the benefit of having something you can put on if the weather takes a turn for the worse at the next Oktoberfest…


 

 

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